Review: Ceviche

Published: 16 April 2014

At the helm of the Peruvian take over, Ceviche has a lot to answer for. Romy van den Broeke heads to the Soho haunt for a lot of pisco and a little ceviche to discover how it started this domino effect.

Ceviche should probably be called Pisco. The lethal but brilliant cocktails are their speciality and were so good we got through 3 pre-dinner. 

Our waiter for the evening – a handsome pisco-pusher – launched straight in with drink suggestions and so before long two creative takes on the classic pisco were placed in front of us. On our waiters insistence we opted for the Black Butterfly, a drink of lavender-infused pisco, English blackberries and wild nettle cordial, and the aptly named Soho which is a mix of Limo chilli infused pisco, elderflower liqueur, cucumber, lime, egg white and cracked black pepper. 

Thoroughly pissed, the time came to order our food – a beloved pastime of drunk over-ordering followed and before we knew it a banquet of Peruvian dishes were piling up in front of us. First came two portions of the Don Ceviche – their signature dish of sea bass ceviche in amarillo chilli tiger’s milk (the citrusy mix to cure the raw fish) served with small cubes of sweet potato and red onions. It’s refined, elegant, tangy and their trademark ceviche for a reason. We then tucked into a plate of the Navaja Criolla, a ceviche of razor clams with purple seaweed, pisco, salsa criolla, lime juice and salmon roe which evokes memories of the seaside; and the Black Kingfish Tiradito ceviche, a slightly sweet dish of Cobia ‘King fish’ with kiwi berries, blood orange and yuzu tiger’s milk. 

Ceviche_02

There is more to Ceviche than just ceviche so be sure to explore the menu. The Tequeños de aji de Gallina are incredible; small, crispy wonton fritters filled with a creamy chilli chicken and aji amarillo sauce. The grilled skewers aren’t to be missed either; try the Panza & Higo grill of braised pork belly in an aji limo glaze with confit figs in pisco, salty pork crackling and a sweet potato purée, and the 47 Lenguas which is an excellent dish of braised ox tongue and caramelized onion with cassava mash and aji limo chimichurri. 

Full to the brim, but not quite done, we try some of the ‘Classic Favourites’. The beef fillet in the Lomo Saltado is flame cooked and sliced with red onions, tomatoes and ‘proper chips’. The Picante de Conejo is unmissable, a slow-cooked rabbit Andean red wine stew with onions, peanuts and roasted potatoes. 

Our bellies were begging us to stop, but alas dessert was yet to come. We ordered the chocolate tart with aji panca and sea salt, physalis coulis and pecan ice cream to share. 

17 Frith Street, Soho, W1D 4RG
020 7292 2040

www.cevicheuk.com

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