Review: L’Escargot

Published: 26 October 2015

There’s no lack of great French restaurants in London and L’Escargot is an institution, but its recent refresh proves it’s not going anywhere soon. Teo van den Broeke finds out more.

Oliver Lesnik is the new head chef at landmark Soho restaurant L’Escargot. Known as the best French eatery in London during the late nineties and early noughties, the restaurant has recently undergone a major refurbishment, and though the glamour of the original establishment remains, the new all day menu is fresh, exciting and – most importantly – delicious.

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Lesnik has respected the establishment’s Gallic roots (L’Escargot was first opened by Frenchman Georges Gaudin in 1927) with a traditionally French menu, but has also added some welcome light dishes including wild mushroom arancini balls; chilli crab with pickled cucumber and avocado; and spinach and pomegranate salad, all of which help lift the offering.

For confirmed carnivores, however, the essential staples are there. Dense and delicious chateaubriand; unctuous duck confit elevated with the addition of rainbow shard; and liquorice braised ox cheek should satisfy the most primordial palettes. 

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The stars of the show, unsurprisingly, are the l’escargots themselves. Yielding little vehicles for a veritable soup of garlic butter – squeamish diners will be won over by these tasty morsels, while seasoned snail veterans will be in garlicky heaven. Opt for half a dozen and save some room for the tarte-tatin. You won’t be disappointed.

48 Greek St, W1D 4EF
020 7439 7474

www.lescargot.co.uk

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